2015年12月17日星期四

Autumn skin care Part III: How to judge a moisturized skin and two effective method to keep good skin moisture


So how to judge if skin is moisturized? And what ingredients are adopted to help dry skin?



Usually, there are three typical ways scientists adopt to judge skin moisturizing. They are sensory, quantitative evaluation and instrument measurement. If a product can meet good moisturizing criteria on these 3 areas, we can say it’s a good efficacy product; and as R&D people, they can release to production and commercial. I won’t talk in detailed of these methods. But I’ll separately discuss in other articles how to combine the typical 3 studies to make superior consumer preferred product claims as R&D people.



The normal water content level in stratum Corneum is around 10-15%. At this level, skin stays comfortable, good appearance, touches supple. Below 10%, skin will feel and looks dry, and when you touch, it will feel rough, not smooth enough. If it goes to much lower level will bring crankiness on skin. When I worked on emerging market project, given those people are usually working under severe dry/cold condition, we deliberately designed a product that help immediately and recover from skin crack. I also joined another winning product design. The target consumer would rather believe their own experience on good moisturizing vs. our advertisement or even data. So we spend huge effort in identify their sensory profile and tried to transfer into technical design items. Both were winning product that I still remember it clearly.



When formulator is making formula, the best way to protect water from evaporation and best way to maintain water is to offer a similar-to-skin ingredients that best matches skin activity in stratum corneum. In order to protect water from evaporate, it needs to firm an oil layer on skin. So, you could always notice the humectant ingredients in the formula.



The second method is to maintain water in skin. The most typical ones are NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). If the skin barrier function is destroyed, or when the NMF level in skin decreases, skin will became dry visibly and sensibly. The key elements in NMF contain amino acid, lactate, urea, ceramide,  etc.  So a good combination of NMF in formula supports the water to be secured to skin.

2015年12月16日星期三

Autumn skin care part II: What is dry skin, how it is measured and difference between hydration & moisturzing care


Part II of Provide Good Skin Moisturizing



What is your skin type? There are different ways to classify skin type. One method is the Fitzpatrick Scale, a numerical classification for human skin color. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatric, Harvard dermatologist in 1975. It is a method to classify the typical response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. It’s more remained as a dermatologist tool to understand human skin pigmentation. Another way is the skin color classification called Von Luschan’s chromatic scale, it divided skin into 36 color. There are pretty academic method of looking at skin. Generally, consumer use the  follow way to skin classification of dry, oil, normal, combination  and sensitive. Let’s use the last method to start our topics and we will focus on dry skin this time.



So what is a dry skin?



Not a lot people has purely dry skin or born with dry skin, unless this person doesn’t do care or living in very severe dry conditions. The more usually occurred skin in combination skin, dry somewhere and oil somewhere. Like usually dry in cheek are and oil in forehead and nose area.



There are different ways to define a skin type. Taken example for dry skin. You can detect by observe, feel of skin sensation, and do skin measurement. Dry skin are easily to get itching, cracking, flaking. But on face, it usually have a sensation of tightness when one make skin compression. Dry skin people tends to get fine lines easier than oily skin as of lack water and oil protection, although in the early stages, there fine lines will disappear after you provide moisturizing care. But it will much more easily turn into wrinkles given no god care. In skin clinical measurement, we usually measure by 2 typical machines, Corneometer and Tewameter. The former reads the hydration level of skin surface (Stratum Corneum), the latter measures the Transepidermal Waterloss (TWEL). TEWL measures the skin barrier function which is an illustration of skin capacity to hold water.  The high of TEWL, the poorer the skin barrier function. The usage of skin hydration and moisturizing care is to provide a temporary protective layer to help skin rebuild its skin barrier function.



Let’s get to know the reason why skin is dry. Babies are not born with dry skin. If one doesn’t do enough care for skin, the water is easily to lead from Stratum Corneum(SC); as a result, the dryer the SC, the more water it will leak.    So what is the right method of taking care of SC, the first shield of our skin?



In US market, we can always find the product claims to provide good moisturizing. In Asia, consumers talking about both hydration and moisturization. I checked with my consumers before all over the world, only consumers in Asia can tell the difference. This is not because Asian consumer are smarter, it is because they pay more attention to facial skin care, and the manufacture’s education based on good science level with proven result can be better and widely accepted.



I talked about hydration in my other blogs. Here let me summarize the functional difference of moisturizing and hydration to skin and how the skin product differentiate. Hydration proactively provides water, is an offering, moisturizing is a protection; Hydration have reveal the skin water level and make skin feel instantly comfortable and refresh, release tightness even temporary fine lines; moisturizing provides oil the form a protective layer on skin the prevents more water from leakage; hydration products are usually on watery or lotion format, and it provides water and need to be better penetrated, while moisturizer usually are in more oily format, as it needs to form an oily layer.

2015年12月7日星期一

Autumn skin care Part I: Persistent Caring for Skin - Provide Good Moisturization


Winter comes again. Usually late fall and early winter are the good times for new product launch, as it is a good window to promote, educate winter skin care habits.



People may not tell too much skin different in their early ages, say, until 30 or even 40. But after that, difference occurs. There is a popular Chinese saying “The parents created you a face, and you create your own face after 30s”. This means that yearly continuously caring, protection will make one looks younger among the peer age groups.  People often travel to Asia may also find that Asia woman usually looks younger than western world woman at similar ages. This is true and proved by several cross region clinical tests.



I remember I read a study when I began my early years of skin beauty care career. It was a test conducted in different location in China and Japan. One location of Japanese woman enjoys the best skin when they get aged. Several reasons. Firstly, where there less UV; then where they begin apply facial moisturizer at early age; thirdly, they live in a more humid geography. The first and third are usually hard to change if one lives in certain location. But the number 2 reason can really be managed by personnel if they do continuous effort.



So the key point for this article is: provide good moisturization to skin and continue to apply. I will talk about UV in a separate article.



So what is moisturizing. How does it work to skin? What are the top effective ingredients? And how you judge your skin is moisturized?