2015年12月16日星期三

Autumn skin care part II: What is dry skin, how it is measured and difference between hydration & moisturzing care


Part II of Provide Good Skin Moisturizing



What is your skin type? There are different ways to classify skin type. One method is the Fitzpatrick Scale, a numerical classification for human skin color. It was developed by Thomas B. Fitzpatric, Harvard dermatologist in 1975. It is a method to classify the typical response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light. It’s more remained as a dermatologist tool to understand human skin pigmentation. Another way is the skin color classification called Von Luschan’s chromatic scale, it divided skin into 36 color. There are pretty academic method of looking at skin. Generally, consumer use the  follow way to skin classification of dry, oil, normal, combination  and sensitive. Let’s use the last method to start our topics and we will focus on dry skin this time.



So what is a dry skin?



Not a lot people has purely dry skin or born with dry skin, unless this person doesn’t do care or living in very severe dry conditions. The more usually occurred skin in combination skin, dry somewhere and oil somewhere. Like usually dry in cheek are and oil in forehead and nose area.



There are different ways to define a skin type. Taken example for dry skin. You can detect by observe, feel of skin sensation, and do skin measurement. Dry skin are easily to get itching, cracking, flaking. But on face, it usually have a sensation of tightness when one make skin compression. Dry skin people tends to get fine lines easier than oily skin as of lack water and oil protection, although in the early stages, there fine lines will disappear after you provide moisturizing care. But it will much more easily turn into wrinkles given no god care. In skin clinical measurement, we usually measure by 2 typical machines, Corneometer and Tewameter. The former reads the hydration level of skin surface (Stratum Corneum), the latter measures the Transepidermal Waterloss (TWEL). TEWL measures the skin barrier function which is an illustration of skin capacity to hold water.  The high of TEWL, the poorer the skin barrier function. The usage of skin hydration and moisturizing care is to provide a temporary protective layer to help skin rebuild its skin barrier function.



Let’s get to know the reason why skin is dry. Babies are not born with dry skin. If one doesn’t do enough care for skin, the water is easily to lead from Stratum Corneum(SC); as a result, the dryer the SC, the more water it will leak.    So what is the right method of taking care of SC, the first shield of our skin?



In US market, we can always find the product claims to provide good moisturizing. In Asia, consumers talking about both hydration and moisturization. I checked with my consumers before all over the world, only consumers in Asia can tell the difference. This is not because Asian consumer are smarter, it is because they pay more attention to facial skin care, and the manufacture’s education based on good science level with proven result can be better and widely accepted.



I talked about hydration in my other blogs. Here let me summarize the functional difference of moisturizing and hydration to skin and how the skin product differentiate. Hydration proactively provides water, is an offering, moisturizing is a protection; Hydration have reveal the skin water level and make skin feel instantly comfortable and refresh, release tightness even temporary fine lines; moisturizing provides oil the form a protective layer on skin the prevents more water from leakage; hydration products are usually on watery or lotion format, and it provides water and need to be better penetrated, while moisturizer usually are in more oily format, as it needs to form an oily layer.

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